"" the girl who makes things: A Helmi shirt

Sunday, 22 April 2018

A Helmi shirt

You know when you finish a very involved project and you have that nice sense of satisfaction, like your creative energy has been sated. You look at your finished garment, take a couple of pictures for Instagram and then decide that's it for the time being. No more sewing..... and then twenty minutes later you find yourself diving into another sewing project? Well, that's how it went down for me.

I'd just finished my Helmi Tunic dress and I was so pleased with the result that I couldn't help starting on another. This time it's a shirt, which I actually had a huge wardrobe gap for.

The fabric is a light viscose twill from Feira dos Tecidos in Lisbon. It is incredibly drapey - perfect for this shirt pattern but an absolute nightmare to handle. I used a lot of spray starch, particularly around the collar, shoulder seams and hem. As a result this shirt took longer than I anticipated to finish.

I'm sure there are some fairly dodgy seams. The shoulder seams are definitely warped but luckily the print disguises the imperfections. I recycled buttons from an old Zara shirt and I think they blend in well too.

I cut a size 34 all over as my measurements for Named a pretty bang-on in my upper body. The only slight alteration I'd make is to widen the shoulders out slightly. I found this tutorial on Colette's website which explains how to adjust them. 

The one change I made to the pattern was to omit the invisible button band. I had no clear reason to do this, I just wanted to see what it was like.

As you can tell from my face, I bloody love this shirt. I think a lot of that is down to the fabric, which, for all the difficulties, is completely divine. Fortunately, I had about half a metre leftover so I made a simple gathered skirt with some elastic and I can even turn this shirt into a 'fake' shirtdress. Check out my Instagram account to see it!


  1. I love that fabric! Yes viscose is a pain to cut out and sew up, but so lovely to wear ;o)

  2. Very beautiful shirt! What pattern did you use?

    1. I see now, it's another from the Helmi dress pattern, didn't read carefully enough at first. I like the way you made the buttons visible and the fabric you chose is perfect!

  3. Loving your shirt, and that fabric is gorgeous!